So Close
South Summit 8750m with true summit behind
‘Getting to the top is optional, getting down is mandatory’ is the mantra long used by Ed Viesturs ever since he began his epic quest to climb all fourteen 8000m peaks. On 19th May I myself abided by that very mantra when, semi blind with frozen corneas and struggling with an iced up oxygen mask, (it was -40c), I decided to turn around at the Hillary Step, heartbreakingly close to the summit. It was a frustrating, but simple, decision to make. I was still feeling strong and could easily have reached the top, but stumbling around on the summit ridge was just not an option. The irony is that Ed Viesturs was actually on the summit at the time! Valerie also turned around at the Hillary Step with frostbite and low oxygen. In one, utterly surreal moment, Phil (who had just been to the summit), myself, Valerie, and our sherpa Tarke, all sat together on a tiny ledge at the Hillary Step with 10,000ft drops either side and held a remarkably lucid discussion about our situation for 20 odd minutes! Although serious at the time, it’s pretty funny looking back now at how Phil was attempting to count on his fingers how many hours of oxygen Valerie had used and failing miserably - that’s hypoxia for you!
Yes, of course it’s disappointing not to summit, but that disappointment is more for my sponsors, family and friends than myself. I could have pushed on, but at what risk? The Tibetan and Sherpa people believe the summits of the highest mountains to be sacred places. To them, Everest is known as Chomolungma - Goddess Mother of the Earth - and even today, despite the considerable financial incentive, some sherpas refuse to climb to the summit and instead remain at the lower South Summit. For me Everest has been a journey, a pilgrimage even, and I have always believed that this great mountain should be climbed with due deference and respect - which is more than can be said for most people here I can tell you. I’d like to think then, that in stopping short of the summit, I have in some small way honored the traditional belief that it is indeed a sacred place.
A huge thank you to my sponsor Control Risks, and in particular the CEO Richard Fenning, for their incredible support, without which this expedition would simply not have been possible. Thank you too, to all my friends and family and those who have donated so generously in my effort to raise as much money as possible for Cancer Research UK. Finally, many congratulations to my patron Sir Ranulph Fiennes who in successfully reaching the summit of Everest on 21st May entered the history books yet again! A true inspiration. Bravo Sir, bravo!
Namaste!